Apples, orchards, cider culture and George Orwell
The ideal cider pub is called ‘s Deckelsche[i] and its appearance, with its sloping roof and black and white walls, is as breath-taking as is the quality of the cider they serve within. The pub dates back to the 12th century, yet the dark wooden beams appear just as strong as they were when the building was constructed.
Like Orwell’s 1946 Moon under Water[ii], the ideal cider pub is the home-away- from-home for regular imbibers and newcomers alike, who, like Orwell’s punters, come for the atmosphere as well as the ciders. It is situated within walking distances of public transport, and is surrounded by wild orchards, a natural lake and a dense evergreen forest.
There are no bouncers at the door, nor rowdy customers shouting for a kebab with chips. No one smokes in front of the entrance or in the pub garden. Everywhere is clean, familiar and tidy, friendly dogs are allowed to greet everyone entering the bar. Punters know the dogs by name, and no one is allergic to the animals. There are no sozzled customers creating chaos, there is no racism, homophobia or sexism. Every customer is welcome regardless of class, culture, religion or status. There are no language or cultural barriers, everyone is of legal drinking age and Brexit never happened.
In the colder seasons candles flicker on the long tables, and the fireplaces are lit, creating a cosy atmosphere without polluting the environment. In the warmer months the windows and doors are opened and allow for a cooling breeze without a chance of hay fever in sight and customers can enjoy the views when seated in the large garden.
The pub sign across the door creaks just right in the wind, and at night the windows project the warmth and friendliness of the place onto the streets.
The pub serves food, local, regional and international, which pairs perfectly with the ciders and perries on offer, whether savoury or sweet. Think Tortilla de bacalao with Asturian cider, Handkäs mit Musik with Apfelwein[iii], a hunk of Cheddar with a bone-dry western Countries cider, an almost liquid Camembert with a glass of Normandy Cidre, creamy moules et frites with a medium-dry classic perry or a floral Eastern counties number with some juicy melon and prosciutto. Yet, all dishes are locally procured and foster sustainability over profit.
Each dish either cuts, compares, contrasts and/or complements the liquids in the glass and a customer never has to ask for more or send food back, as the portion sizes are always right. There are vegan pairings, low sugar options, halal, kosher and gluten-free combinations as well as options for vegetarian, pescatarian and flexitarian diets.
The ciders, and perries, sold here are locally produced, from apples, and pears, grown in the wild orchards. The owners and landlords make all the ciders and perry themselves, and the food miles are reduced to mere meters.
The ciders on offer reflect the diversity of cider making methodology, and the numerousness of apple and pear varieties. There are artisanal examples on offer, craft ciders and perries, as well as premium and mainstream options. There are rumours that value amber and value white ciders are available, but punters have to formally request them if they wish to drink them. Some ciders are classed as Farmhouse Ciders and others are labelled as Fine Cider.
The owners of ‘s Deckelsche follow the basic definition of cider when offering their drinks – a cider is fermented apple juice and a perry is fermented pear juice. It’s that simple.
Customers can taste tannin-forward ciders, acid-forward ciders, perries, both traditional and modern, ice ciders, flavoured ciders and no and low alcohol ciders – all in all ciders and perries which showcase the full spectrum of styles and interpretations. There are naturally cloudy ciders, as well as bright, crystal clear ones. There are pale straw ciders, and there are rich auburn ones there are bright golden ones and there are cider which colours are determined by their adjuncts. Oh, and there is Scrumpy!
The harvest driven ciders are the result of whole juice fermentation, without any concentrate or chaptalized juice in sight. Those ciders may be fermented with wild yeasts, whilst others are inoculated with specifically chosen cultured yeasts. Some may ferment fully dry, whilst others undergo keeving. Some ciders are packages and sold still, whilst others undergo additional bottle fermentation / conditioning or even forced carbonation. Some ciders are Pét-nat, following a methode ancestral approach, and some are the product of méthode champenoise / méthode traditionnelle. The harvest driven ciders are aged until they are deemed ready, some in wooden barrels, some in stainless steel tanks, some in plastic containers. Sometimes a vintage isn’t available for years, as it wants to undergo a lengthy aging process, other times customers can enjoy last year’s cider during harvest time.
Other ciders are produced more commercially, and are available all year round, with the same expected and customer-approved aroma and flavour profile. Some are produced with fresh juice and employ chaptalisation or back sweetening techniques, others are entirely from concentrate and pure spring water.
And even with the help of the commercial approach, the apples are still grown in the local orchards, and are then made into concentrate on the premises.
The pub also offers co-fermented and flavoured ciders, which either followed the harvest driven approach or the more commercial methods. Hopped and other botanical ciders mingle with fruit flavoured ciders, strawberry and lime combinations sit next to caramel apple and dark fruits ciders, whilst grape and cherry co-ferments line the shelves behind the bar.
The bar itself offers draught ciders, both on cask and on keg, as well as bag-in-boxes options. Bottled ciders come in sizes ranging from 330ml to 750ml, from crown cap, screw top to cork and cage. There is also a large Faulenzer [iv]on the bar, holding a Bembel filled to the brim with German Apfelwein.
The ciders are served in the associated and proper glassware, from Gerippe and Bembel to wine glasses, pints and champagne flutes.
During txotx[v], customer can enjoy the typically tart, dry and earthy sidra and sagardoa directly from the vast wooden barrels, which line one side of the room. Customers who prefer the tannic and juicy tastes of cidre and poiré from Normandy and Brittany can indulge in bottle after bottle of French cider by simply walking over to the other side of the bar. Canadian cidre de glace and ice ciders can be sipped whilst learning all about cryoconcentration[vi] and cryoextraction[vii], and personal blends can be created by ordering various Single Varietal Ciders to the table.
Craft ciders are served by the pint, bottle and can, and customers can choose products ranging from American (Hard) Ciders to Zambian perries.
The landlords and staff behind the bar ferment their own ciders and everyone lives and breathes cider and perry. Regular talks and tastings, as well as lecture and hands-on experiences days are part of the social calendar, and everyone, customers and staff, share their knowledge and passion with everyone who steps through the sometimes creaking doors. Sometimes pomologists share their knowledge, other times cider makers indulge the customers and staff with a vertical tasting of their vintages, and another event may involve a torchlight walk through the orchards. The pub has its own library and archive of cider and perry books, anecdotes and musings, and anyone is welcome to conduct research there.
A few times throughout the year, cider competitions are held where staff and consumers can hone their judging skills, and great cider is enjoyed by all. Anyone can become a judge for a day and will receive training if need be. Ciders and perries are judged subjectively and objectively, depending on the theme of the competition, such as judging to style, or for consumer tastes. Before each competition, judges are always informed about the judging parameter, and there are training opportunities for anyone interested in becoming a judge.
Each tree bears fruit each year and there is naturally no biennialism.
There are trees growing bittersharp apples, others grow bittersweets. There are trees producing sharp fruit whilst others grow apples classified as sweets. There are many perry pear trees mingling with trees growing dessert pears. There are wild and crab apple trees.
The years follow the four seasons, and the weather is always just right. The apples and pears are free from pests and diseases and each crop produces the perfect cider and perry.
During harvesting, some apples naturally gather on the orchard floor without bruising or damage and some naturally collect around the orchards to form feeding stations for the wildlife. Certain apples remain amongst themselves to create single variety ciders, whilst others travel to meet the right counterpart to form the perfect orchard blend.
All the cider maker has to do is scoop up the apples and press them. The scratters load themselves and the presses squeeze the pulp without human effort. Fermentation, maturation and the eventual bottling, canning and packaging processes are equally as painless and effortless.
One of the wild orchards is home to some magnificent pear trees, which can be pressed into the most delightful perry. The pears ripen when the cider maker has time to harvest them, and otherwise they patiently wait their turns on the trees. They have time, and so do the cider makers.
There is never a problem with pollination and the orchards are home to thousands of plant and animal species. Wild boars dine with wasps on slightly fermented apples, whilst cows and rabbits feast on the juiciest of pears. Birds and squirrels live happily next to foxes and deer. The orchards around the pub are ecosystems and support life, as opposed to monoculture and profit making.
The trees grow fruit true from seed …. And just as Orwell’s pub, there is no place as ‘s Deckelsche.
Food miles are still a problem, high quality ciders and perries can be costly to produce, harvests aren’t always plentiful, commercial orchards are still resembling a clone army Supreme Chancellor Palpatine[viii] would approve of, and perry pears dance to the beat of their own drum and no one else’s… above all global warming is threatening the future of us all…
And, even if the ideal cider pub doesn’t exist, we have cider – and that is a very close second.
Wassail
xxx
[i] Yup, after those little lids Germans put over their cider glasses.
[ii]The Orwell Foundation, The Moon Under Water (1946) https://www.orwellfoundation.com/the-orwell-foundation/orwell/essays-and-other-works/the-moon-under-water/ [Accessed 29/05/23]
[iii] Check out S is for Stöffche: Of Schobbepetzer in training, mixing Apfelwein into ungodly drinks, and cheese with music for some help with the German Apfelwein language – can be confusing.
[iv] A Faulenzer is a metal construction akin to a cage which holds a large traditional Bembel, i.e., cider jug, in place on the bar, so cider can be served without having to lift the large and heavy jug.
[v]Txotx refers to the cider season in the Basque Country, which begin every year on the 20th of January and last until April, when the sagardotegis, i.e., cider makers, showcase the cider they have been producing during the past year. Drinkers can taste cider from various large barrels, called kupela, and eventually vote for their favourite.
Husband, clear the calendar for January to April 2024, we’re heading to the Basque Country!
[vi] Cryocconcenteartion is the name given to the practice of freezing pressed apple juice, then allowing it to defrost. This methos is used to make ice cider / cidre de glace. The freezing point of water and juice is different, which typically leave a block of frozen water behind, while the highly concentrated sugary juice has already defrosted.
[vii] The typical method used to make ice cider / Cidre de glace. Here, fruit is allowed to freeze on the tree and is then pressed whilst still partially frozen to extract the sugars in the highly concentrated juice, leaving behind the water still frozen in the fruit.
[viii] Sar Wars, Emperor Palpatine / Darth Sidious https://www.starwars.com/databank/emperor-palpatine-darth-sidious [Accessed 31/01/23]
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